a typical dining experience in small town china.

yesterday, i biked between anning and fumin, two small towns west of kunming. the route was beautiful and followed a river with rice terraces climbing both sides of the valley. when i arrived in fumin, i biked around town for a bit, in search of a place for lunch. drawing stares from every direction, clifford (my bike) and i worked our (not the last time clifford will help me use the first person plural) way through the small streets, finally settling on a small noodle shop just outside of town. as i pulled up, the entire restaurant turned to watch the waiguoren lock his bike.

i walked into the restaurant as customers audibly commented on every aspect of my appearance. i approached the kitchen, everyone watching, and ordered a bowl of veggie noodles. i was complemented on my chinese (this is VERY common, even if you can only say hello) and then i returned to my table. i sat, everyone stared. i drank some water, everyone stared. i sent a text, everyone stared. my phone beeped in response, those who had turned away looked back.

the owner of the restaurant, very impressed with my chinese, sat down with me and started saying something important really fast. in response, i said 'oh, i only speak a little chinese' hoping that this would somehow convey that although, yes, i can order veggie noodles, i still had no idea what on earth he was talking about. he shrugged, and walked off.

the table next to me was working on some delicious looking fried potatoes. i asked if i could purchase some. the owner went to the table, took their potatoes, and gave them to me.

on the way out, i asked for directions back to kunming. as i walked away, clear on which way to go, the woman who had given me directions yelled 'chinese!' at me in chinese. i smiled in response, trying to avoid expressing my utter confusion.

amid giggles and taigaoles, i pedaled off to kunming.

ps. i'm considering renaming this blog 'amid giggles and taigaoles.'